Flan de queso

I’m a sucker for flan, and flan-like recipes. If the dessert menu includes something that involves milk/cream, egg yolks and caramel, there’s a good chance i’ll end up gobbling it down.

Maybe it has something to do with latino civic duty. If the menu has something resembling flan or arroz con leche (rice pudding), I must eschew all the other options, even if they look yummier, in favour of my ethnic desserts.  What better way to prove that I’m still a latino!

But, they get boring. Flan, in spite of being the quintessential latino comfort food, it’s still the same time after time.

I was curious though when Lili told me that the September issue of Gourmet included the ultimate flan recipe.

The main difference with their recipe is cream cheese; that’s why the name translates as cheese flan. I was quite excited to get cracking and even bought a new scale (the old one sucked) to make sure I got the proportions right.  My only adaption was that I didn’t have cinnamon sticks on hand, but did have an orange, so I added grated orange peel instead.

I think the cream cheese makes it too hard. I like the idea of adding some form of cheese for added flavour and texture, but cream cheese seemed too heavy for my taste. Maybe a mix of cream cheese diluted in milk, or some other cheese diluted in milk or cream would do the trick. I’ve had awesome creme brulees with ricotta in them, so methinks that ricotta would make a good substitution.

Don’t get me wrong though…I still gobbled down 2/3 of the whole thing before my roommates managed to come out and demand their share of flan.

CHEESE FLAN
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup water
2 1/2 cups whole milk
1 (3-inch) cinnamon stick
1 (14-ounces) can sweetened condensed milk
8 ounces cream cheese, softened
5 large eggs
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/8 teaspoon salt

Equipment: 8 (7- to 8-ounce) ramekins
Make caramel:
Heat sugar and water in a small heavy saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Cook, without stirring, brushing down sugar crystals from side of pan using a pastry brush dipped in cold water and swirling pan occasionally so caramel browns evenly, until dark amber. Immediately pour into ramekins and swirl so caramel coats bottom of each and partway up side, then put in a roasting pan.

Make flan:
Preheat oven to 350°F with rack in middle.

Bring milk with cinnamon stick just to a simmer in a small heavy saucepan, then remove from heat and let steep, covered, 5 minutes. Remove cinnamon.

Meanwhile, blend condensed milk and cream cheese in a food processor until smooth. Add eggs, vanilla, and salt and blend until smooth. Transfer to a large bowl, then whisk in hot milk.

Divide among ramekins, then add enough boiling water to pan to reach halfway up sides of ramekins. Cover pan loosely with a sheet of foil and bake until custards are just set (they will still wobble slightly in center when tapped), 45 to 55 minutes.

Remove ramekins from water bath and let stand at least 15 minutes (flan will continue to set). Just before serving (warm or at room temperature), run a thin knife around flans to loosen, then invert onto plates.

Cooks’ note: Flan can be made 2 days ahead. Chill in ramekins, uncovered, until cool, then cover. Let stand at room temperature about 1 hour before serving. To serve warm, put ramekins in a roasting pan of hot water and straddle over 2 burners on low, then heat about 20 minutes.
Gourmet Magazine
September 2007

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